Summary
This hand-cut boot pattern has been generated on brown paper and was most likely used by Stanio Fancoff for creating his various shoewares sometime during the 1930s - 1970s. This pattern's two different length sizes of 5 and 16 1/2 inches combined with its large calf width suggest this to be a generic males mid-calf boot pattern most likely used within the making of various styled boots. Amongst many others, this pattern is part of the shoemaking designer kit that enabled Stanio to acquire versatility and different fashions within his shoemaking trade.
Stanio Ivanoff Fancoff was born in 1908 in Bojentsi, a small village in Bulgaria. At age 11, Stanio left home to learn the shoemaking trade. In 1929, he immigrated to Melbourne, settled in Fitzroy and began to work for the V.G. Zemancheff & Sons basket shoe factory in South Melbourne. In1936, he married Dorotea Georgi Touzou who had recently arrived in Australia. Around this time, Stanio set up his own shoemaking business from home, with Georgi, her cousin and sister weaving the shoes which he then assembled. Select shoe samples were then taken to Sydney and Tasmania for sale. In 1942, Georgi and Stanio moved to Broken Hill for Georgi's health; there daughter Nancy was born and Stanio set up a shoe shop/factory. In 1945, Georgi died and by 1950 Stanio and Nancy had moved to Adelaide where he again opened a shoemaking business and shop. He passed away in 1978, having been in the shoemaking business for 59 years. This collection documents his migration and working life experiences.
Physical Description
Drawn within a side-view perspective on brown paper, this boot pattern exhibits several pencil markings and text indicating size and shape. The unusual boot shape positions its top edge higher at the front, with its back edges dipping to create a second horizontal level. Additionally, this boot's sole is not flat but does not exhibit any heel. Running vertically from the top to the lower three quarters mark are two pencilled parallel lines that stop at the adjoining horizontal line. Located within the lower section of these parallel lines are two zig-zag scriblbles, and flanking its left at the midway point reads ZIP 10". Positioned approximately one third down the calf section is a horizontal double line with the numbers indicating 16 1/2" written atop, at the lower third level point another set of double lines appears with text indicating 5 inches, while in the mid-section the number 13 appears adjacent a vertically placed double headed arrow appears. Furthermore, the indicating text of 16 1/2 sits atop at the midway point of the two lines that transcend diagonally from the boot's upper edge midway point to the heel's counter. Indicative of decoration, an elongated 'S' shaped pattern starts at the vamp's top and ends within the shank area. Possibly referencing boot sizing, the text 8 appears within the fore-foot area. On the reverse side a vertically placed double headed arrow appears with 13 3/4 written adjacent.
Significance
This collection is significant in documenting a small migrant business as well as the fashion of a particular period. It is well provenanced and charts the application of trade skills in a new country. It also illustrates the stages of hand shoe manufacture from the 1930s, demonstrating the enduring nature of the tools and patterns that were used.
More Information
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Collecting Areas
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Acquisition Information
Donation from Nancy Vasileff, 21 Mar 2007
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Maker
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Inscriptions
Handwritten, Pencil, Text, 3 inches below Boot Top Edge: 16 1/2" Handwritten, Pencil, Text,8.5 inches below Boot Top Edge: 5" Handwritten, Pencil, Text, written vertically- :ZIP / 13" (to its left) Handwritten, Pencil, Text, Below Zip End, off central left: 16 1/2 Handwritten, Pencil, Text, Front Foot Section: 8
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Classification
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Category
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Discipline
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Type of item
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Overall Dimensions
325 mm (Width), 396 mm (Height)
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References
R.A. Salaman, 'Dictionary of Leather-working Tools c.1700-1950 and Tools of Allied Trades,' London: George Allen and Unwin (Publishers) Ltd, 1986 [Section 2: Boot and Shoe Maker pp18-185]. John Peacock. 'Shoes, The Complete Sourcebook,' London:Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2005. NAA holds file (online) on Vasil George Zemancheff, Fancoff's employer
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Keywords
Boot & Shoemaking, Bulgarian Communities, Bulgarian Immigration, Immigration, Small Businesses